Thin Crust Pizza
Rene G
Chi.eats
5/17/00

Hey, it's been over a month since our last pizza discussion, certainly
it's time to go at it again! If anyone needs reading material just do a
Deja search on pizza in chi.eats and you'll be occupied for most of the
day. I think a safe summary would be that there are few if any Chicago
pizzerias that do an authentic NY style thin crust slice. That's
definitely not the same as saying there's no good thin crust pizza here.
On the contrary.

First, let me make a few comments on Bacci. Then, separately I'll post
on 3 south side pizzerias that I feel don't get the attention they
deserve.


A while ago I mentioned Bacci's (on Chicago Av) as a possible Chicago
surrogate for New York pizza. I have now visited the Taylor St location
and it's virtually identical to the newer place. I'll freely admit it's
not exactly NY style (I do have some knowledge of the stuff; I have
family in Manhattan and visit and eat pizza regularly).

I remember someone objecting because Bacci puts lumps of sausage under
the cheese, and tops the pies with something other than mozzarella.

They're certainly right about the sausage but not, I believe, about the
cheese. It looks like mozzarella, it tastes like mozzarella, and the
guys who work there (Taylor Street) say it's mozzarella. Granted, it's
mozzarella made in the US, but that's true for just about every pizza in
this country. Perhaps it was on a Friday when they sometimes have a
special pie with fresh tomatoes and Romano cheese (in addition to
mozzarella). But even on Fridays they always have their usual cheese
(mozzarella) and sausage (under the mozzarella) slices available.

In any case, I think Bacci's does a pretty good job on a type of pizza
that usually isn't very well represented around here.


Bacci Pizzeria
2248 W Taylor St
(also at 2356 W Chicago Av and in Berwyn)
Chicago
312-455-9000

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Southside Thincrust Damenzo's 
Rene G
chi.eats
5/17/00

Richard Herell mentioned Damenzo's, just down the street from Bacci's on
Taylor, as having even better pizza (thanks, Richard!). I think I might
agree, though it's probably even less NY-style. I like this place a lot.

The crust is roughly similar to Bacci's, being medium thin but not
crisp, slightly pliable with a bit of chew to it. It's clearly not hand-
tossed, but is rolled out and cut to size. The pies always appear a bit
pale, something that worried me at first. The taste is anything but pale
however, this is a very flavorful pizza. The homemade sauce is excellent
and quite spicy as is the sausage (also homemade, with lots of fennel).
Again, like Bacci's, they put the toppings under the cheese. Cheese is
very generously applied.

It's about as different from most Chicago thin crust pizzas (such as
Pat's on the north side or Chesdan's on the south) as it is from a pan
pizza (as exemplified by Uno's or Lou Malnatti's). I think slices are
$2.30 (either cheese or sausage) and they're huge. The whole jumbo pizza
is a sight to behold.

There are a couple dining rooms but they're not all that appealing
(think of a 1960s basement rec room). They do a large takeout and
delivery business.

Finally, don't forget that Ferarra's, an old Italian bakery, is just a
couple blocks east of Damenzo's. Closes a lot earlier though. Check out
the 1940s Tribune article about the walk-through wedding cake.


Damenzo's Pizza & Restaurant
2324 W Taylor St
Chicago
312-421-1142
Mon-Thu 10am-11pm; Fri-Sat 10am-1am; Sun 12pm-12am

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Southside Thincrust Chesdan's
Rene G
chi.eats
5/17/00

Chesdan's has been around on the southwest side since 1946 and
occasionally I've heard it mentioned as someone's favorite pizza. I
finally got around to trying it and, while it is not in the style I
prefer, it's pretty decent.

It's an exceedingly thin crust affair, almost crispy. A goodly amount of
smooth, slightly sweet sauce covered with a very thick layer of decent,
but bland, cheese. The sausage was very good but the mushrooms clearly
came from a can. Overall it reminded me a bit of Pat's, another pizza I
respect but don't love. They also make a stuffed pizza I'd be curious to
try. Fairly extensive menu with lots of sandwiches, pastas, even steaks.

They have a dining room with booths and tables as well as a separate bar
room. At lunch (11:30-2) there's a buffet with all the soup, salad and
pizza you can eat for $5.49. Sounds like it might be a good deal.

For the serious student of Chicago pizza this is probably an essential
stop. If you're a fan of Pat's-style pizza you might like it a lot. I
myself am not in any great hurry to get back there but I certainly
wouldn't avoid it either.

There's an interesting note on the menu: "As a courtesy to all our
patrons, pipe and cigar smoking is not allowed anywhere in the place!
(sometimes we will make exceptions)."


Chesdan's
4465 S Archer Av (just west of Kedzie)
Chicago
773-247-2400

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Egg Pizza
(Vito and Nick's)
Rene G
chi.eats
4/23/01

I have only become familiar with Vito & Nick's in the past year or so
but it has quickly become my favorite place for thin crust pizza.
They've been in business over 50 years and seem to have things pretty
well figured out. This is not one of the "more cheese = better pizza"
places so if you require masses of mozzarella to be happy it might be
better to go elsewhere.

I always liked the fact that they cook their pizzas a bit more than
usual; every pie is a reddish golden-brown rather than a yellow mass of
just-melted cheese. On a previous visit we sat at the bar where I had a
clear view of the kitchen. I watched while the guys working back there
pulled out perfectly browned pies, never burned, one after another.

We had ordered half pepperoni/half sausage and I was very impressed to
see the cook pull out our pie, slice it in half, and return the sausage
portion to the oven for perhaps one minute (the pepperoni half was
placed above the oven to keep warm, not just left sitting out on the
counter). Now you know what would happen in this situation at nearly any
other pizza place: "F***it, close enough." These guys actually seem to
care about what they're doing.

I wrote about this place some months ago and mentioned a curiosity on
the menu--an egg pizza (Friday only). Just tried one the other day and
would like to report it exceeded expectations. The great thing about
their pizzas is the way all the ingredients meld together and the egg
version is no exception. I'm not quite sure how it's made--raw eggs may
be simply broken on top of the pie before cooking but I suspect there's
more to it than that. The final result is somewhere between a pizza and
a very thin quiche. Even the skeptics at our table had to admit it
wasn't bad. Next time, I'll order an egg and onion, that would be a good
combination. They will happily accommodate orders for half-toppings,
even with egg. There was none left over but this might be the ultimate
breakfast pizza.

This was my first egg pizza in Chicago and I'm looking forward to having
it again but can't recall seeing it on the menus at any of my usual
haunts. Can anyone recommend any other places to try?

Vito & Nick's Pizzeria
8435 S Pulaski Rd
Chicago
773-735-2050


There's a second Vito & Nick's in a suburban shopping center, but note
that they do not make egg pizzas, even on Friday. I've only been once
and didn't think the pizza was quite as good as at the original. The new
place, unlike the original, sells frozen pizzas. I haven't tried these
but if they're half as good as the real thing it could be very nice to
have a couple sitting in your freezer.

Vito & Nick's II
9644 S Roberts Rd
Hickory Hills IL 60457
708-430-2800

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Southside Thincrust Vito and Nick's
Rene G
chi.eats
5/17/00

Vito & Nick's is another southwest side pizzeria that's been around
about 50 years.

It's a single medium size room with a long bar and maybe 15 tables. It
seems to be an all smoking room so if that bothers you, be warned. Even
if it does bother you, I think it's worth putting up with because the
pizza is awfully good. I'd have to say it's right at the top of the
thin/crisp category. You can just tell they'll be good by looking at
them, they're really beautiful pies. From my seat at the bar I had a
good view of the kitchen and watched dozens of pies come from the oven.
Every single one was perfectly done, a little darker than usually seen
but just perfect.

The pizza choices are very simple: small or large with only the most
basic toppings. The draft beer choices are even simpler (good if you
happen to like Old Style). Actually there is one real oddity on the
pizza menu: a cheese and egg pizza (Friday only). I don't have the
faintest idea what this is like. Another notable Friday special is all-
you-can-eat smelt. They also have a few sandwiches etc but I can't
imagine going there and passing up the pizza.

The crust is very thin and fairly crispy. Sauce is smooth and spicy.
Toppings are under the cheese which is applied fairly sparingly. Both
pepperoni and sausage were first rate. There is no crust border to speak
of; everything extends right to the edge. These pizzas are beautifully
balanced without any single element dominating. Everything just melds
together into a well-balanced whole. Really an excellent pizza.

Prices are very reasonable with a big pie under $12. If this is a style
of pizza that interests you V&N is really worth a visit.

I'll go way out on a limb and assert this is a great pizza. Is it the
best in Chicago? Of course not (there's no such thing).


Vito & Nick's
8435 S Pulaski Rd
Chicago
773-735-2050





